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Shipping cost cannot be calculated. Please enter a valid ZIP Code. Shipping to: United States. The next set of signals is the digit enable signals. These 6 wires carry signals to all the display driver modules with information telling it which digit to light.
The third set of signals are 5 latch strobe signals. There is one separate signal for each display driver, and it is the signal that tells the driver's decoder to read the decoder inputs, and output the proper segment signals. The final signal is a single single that goes to all the display drivers called Display Blanking.
The signal tells the display driver's decoder to turn off all segment outputs, thereby blanking out the display, or turning all segments off. Once the machine has been turned on and has booted up, the processor on the MPU module is continuously running a program that is stored in the module's ROM chip s.
This program is responsible for controlling the game by reading all the switches, lighting all the lamps, activating all the solenoids, and controlling the displays. The program keeps a lot of information in RAM and uses this information to keep track of scores, switches, etc. An interrupt is a term for a section of computer program that interrupts the "main" program in order to execute a smaller program, sometimes referred to as a "service routine".
We won't get into just how this actually happens, just be aware that the main program of a computer may be interrupted at any given time. And to make things even more complicated, interrupts themselves can be interrupted by higher priority interrupt service routines. There may be several different interrupts that occur in a pinball's computer program, but the one we want to study is the one that controls the displays.
Keep in mind what was mentioned above, that at any given instant, only one digit is lit on any display. This is called multiplexing.
In memory, the CPU keeps track of all the information it needs to operate all the displays. This information includes a counter used to indicate which display digit is active, the BCD data for all the displays, etc. Here's what the display service routine actually does:. As you can see, the display interrupt service routine only handled 1 digit for all displays.
Every time it is invoked, it will process the "next" digit, resetting the counter back to 1 when necessary. Pretty cool, eh? So, lets do some math. Since the interrupt runs times a second, and it takes 6 interrupts to update the entire display, dividing by 6 means that the displays are completely updated just over 54 times every second.
That's fast enough to fool your eyes and brain into thinking the display is completely lit all the time. To increase the total of controlled lamps used in a particular game, Bally implemented auxiliary lamp driver boards.
These aux. There are essentially only two different boards used in games. The first is an AS This is the smaller footprint board, which has only one output connection. It is capable of driving 12 discrete circuits or a total of 24 lamps 12 sets of 2 lamps. The second board is the AS This board is narrower, yet longer in construction.
It is capable of driving 28 discrete circuits or a total of 56 lamps 28 sets of 2 lamps. Either aux. Likewise, these signals are identical to the signals sent to the primary lamp driver board. The only differing signal between the primary lamp driver board and either aux.
The primary lamp driver board receives lamp strobe 1, while the aux. A third auxiliary lamp driver board was produced, but not by Bally. It can sometimes be misidentified as a standard Bally AS aux lamp board because of its similar footprint and layout.
However, it does not have any silkscreened text on the top of the board, the. The AS sound board improved over earlier sound boards that only made tones and introduced the ability to produce sound effects. There is a single self-test push-button on the board, which has the ability to produce a tone or a series of sounds.
However, not all game sound ROMs have the self-test feature available. To complete a successful self-test, a sound ROM with a self-test feature must be used. Note that when a sound ROM without a self-test feature is installed and results in an unresponsive self-test, this does not necessarily indicate a problem with the sound board or sound ROM. Jumper B is used when U3 is a and U10 is installed.
Jumper C is used when U4 is 2K in size B or Jumper D is used when U4 is 4K in size or The Sounds Plus board has a daughter card called the Vocalizer that contains the roms and circuitry needed to generate speech. The Vocalizer board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. It is a complimentary board to the AS Sounds Plus board, and contains the numerous roms needed for an extensive speech vocabulary. It is probably the most intuitive sound board Bally offered too.
There are at least 4 variations of the board: , a, b and d. Some variations of this board have a J3 header connection located at the top upper left edge of the board. This connection was never implemented. Likewise, some boards are populated with a 2 x 20 pin.
This connection is marked on the schematics for the use of a vocalizer, which was never implemented. All of the different variations of this board should work on all games. The exceptions are Centaur and Centaur II. These two games must use the b board. A standard or a has a total of 6 header pins at J2, while the b has a total of 10 header pins.
These jumpers reflect the original ROM configuration when the game was released. If you've changed your sound ROMs to s or from s to s, see the second table below. This board was only used on Centaur and Centaur II. The Cheap Squeak was designed as a lesser expensive sound board.
It only utilizes a microprocessor, which allows it to function without PIAs and external ram memory. This sound board is only capable of simple tones and sounds and no speech. Granny and the Gators, a game also uses the Cheap Squeak. Lady Luck, a based game, also uses this sound board. At power up, the Cheap Squeak's LED will flicker briefly, then flash, flash again, then turn on and stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on.
Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing. The LED May turn on and off when sounds are playing or idle, but this is not always the case. There are differing results when pressing the self test button depending on the sound ROMs.
For example, pressing the self test with Black Pyramid ROMs results in a differing tone played every time. The processor fetches information from the sound ROMs both code to execute and sound clips by placing address information on AD0-AD7 and strobing the processor's AS address strobe signal to the 74LS U2 , thereby latching the lower 8 bits of the address bus in the LS Besides placing instruction address and data on the address and data busses, the processor reads sound selects via PP24 and writes sound data to the DAC via PP Think of these lines as PA1-PA7 of a or The is initialized by the MPU at power up into mode N.
Once initialized and running, the sound ROM code running in the accepts sound signal commands and merely reads pre-formatted sound "clips" from the sound ROMs and then writes the data to the ZN U6 digital-to-analog converter DAC 8 bits at a time. The DAC converts the digital data to an analog level which is presented to the amplifiers for output to the speaker s. Unregulated 12VDC enters the board at J It is filtered by C8, C9, and C The inductor at L1 smooths the voltage somewhat.
To prevent the sound volume from fluctuating over the range of operating temperatures, the reference voltage is held constant by a "voltage divider biasing circuit" comprised of resistors at R22, R23, and R24, and a 2N NPN transistor at Q7. This reference voltage is presented at pin 5 of the DAC. After pressing the test switch SW1 , a sound is played, and then the board reboots itself. Some may actually be NC. The first generation SB sound board was used on the earliest Stern games with electronic sound.
These boards were fully populated, because in addition to electronic sounds, there was a simulated chimes option typically dipswitch setting 23 on M MPU boards. Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the first generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M MPU board and electronic sounds. With some modifications , this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched 3rd generation board. The second generation SB sound board was used on Stern games with electronic sound and no chime sound option typically dipswitch setting 23 on M MPU boards.
Due to the lack of the optional chime sounds option, this board is less populated. Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the second generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M MPU board and electronic sounds, which did not use the chime option. With some modifications , this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched third generation board. The third generation SB sound board was used on some of the last Stern M games with electronic sound and no chime sound option.
Like the second generation board, due to the lack of the optional chime sounds, this board is less populated. The difference with this board and the second generation board is that the component markings and through holes have been removed where components are no longer used. Although they will have lower pitched sounds, the third generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M MPU board, which did not use the chime option.
This board also shipped in the "standard" green PCB variety. This board is easily identified by the large "C-1" notation. Some test points are located in different positions compared to the first two generations, and TP8 has been deleted.
Note that the sound board only uses pins on its J1 connection. Some ribbon cables used were 2 - 16 pin connections, while others were 2 - 17 pin connections, or a combination of the two. Make certain that pin 34 of the sound board is not connected to the MPU. This signal is never used by the sound board. Either bend pin 34 of J1 on the sound board away from the connector if it is even connected , or snip the pin off completely. In other words, Stern never designed a sound board which was capable of both sound and speech.
The speech synthesis is based on the SA speech chip. They are pricey, but still available. All Bally and games use a speaker, Bally games do not. In some cases, games use more than one speaker. The early games use a very small, xxx ohm, low wattage speaker in the bottom of the cabinet. With the exception of the first four Stern M games, which shipped with a 4-bar chime box, all others use a speaker. And most of them have the speaker mounted on a board, aimed at the coin door. The Stern M games use a single speaker in the lower cabinet.
This board was mounted to the backbox and a harness connected the board to the MPU board at the top connector J5. Many of the logic gate chips on the MPU boards are used to steer address signals to the proper pins on the various U1-U6 chip sockets.
If you have changed the jumpers and you cannot make the board boot with known good working roms, it is possible you have an addressing problem caused by one of the logic gate support chips. Always double check your jumper work by following the trace or schematic to the next point after the jumper; i. Go to the next point where the jumper connects and test between those points.
Be careful soldering to the pads, as they can be fragile. It is best to remove all the solder from the pad and insert the jumper fully into the via rather than just solder to the top.
Soldering the jumper top and bottom will help with any cracked vias. Solder the jumpers to the top of the board where the jumper silk screening is printed rather than the back so that you can easily spot what type of rom chips the board is jumpered for.
It helps to understand how the original software is formatted to understand how to combine and pad the software to get different formats. If you need to use eproms but don't have any, you can use a eprom in its place by duplicating the data. The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space. If you want to use a board in a game that uses another board, you must change CR52 a 1n diode near J4 to a 2k resistor.
If you want to use a board in a game that requires a , change resistor R to a 1n diode, banded end farthest away from J4. If it is 6. If it is 43 VDC, the game requires the configuration.
The "-DASH" between numbers means to jump one point to the other, e. E means jump E1 to E2. Some jumps are very close to each other, others are much farther away. If a jumper combination is NOT listed in the chart above, this jumper must be cut or removed! Double check your work and verify that someone else has not modified the board before you begin the process. This is a very common fault. Note A, in U2, in U6 In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
Note B, in U2, in U6 In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration. Make sure jumpers E, E, E, and E are in place. Note: Trace cuts were completed using a "ball" cutter in a Dremel. The "cut" is marked with a black marker. Note C, Single at U2 for the early to games. This configuration works for the following Bally games. The command combines the two files into a single binary file.
In addition to the jumpers listed above,make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration. Stern switched almost exclusively to a 4x configuration sometime around Seawitch through the end of their run and various boards have been spotted in the wild that seem factory with 2x configuration.
Note that jumpers and control the clock speed of the MPU This isn't really a problem, but timings of sound events might be affected as well as other unforeseen consequences. If the chip or socket at U13 is bad, it can be ignored. This however is a waste of resources, as the MPU board is hard to find and cannot be substituted by a or board without some modifications.
Additionally, if all 32 dip switches are turned off upon boot with an MPU, it will flash seven times and jump into self-test mode. This will toggle alternatively every solenoid, flashing controlled lamps, and test each digit on the score displays. At least one DIP switch must be on to avoid this.
This is not a function of the board itself, just the software used. For example, if you put earlier stern software previous to Meteor or any Bally software in an MPU, it will not enter self-test with all dips off. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.
This wire is RED in my examples. Connect jumper location E12 to ground. I use the large ground trace closest to E Connect jumper positions E9 and E13A. This wire is green in my examples. This is an error and E13A will need to be used for this step.
We could also use jumper location E35 but R14 is closer and makes for a cleaner installation, in my opinion.
This wire is yellow in my examples. The problem is that there are no jumper locations on the and MPU that are connected to A14 so we have to connect directly to pin 24 of the Motorola U9. One option is to run the wire over the top of the board to the back solder side but I wanted to make my conversions look as clean as possible so I use pin 20 of U3 as a through hole to get to the other side of the board.
So we connect pin 2 of the EPROM to pin 20 of U3 on the components side of the board then connect pin 20 of U3 to pin 24 of U9 on the solder side of the board.
This makes for a clean looking conversion on the components side of the MPU. If you're going to use this method you need to ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E8. This wire is pink in my examples. This wire is black in my examples. If you leave the board configured for another rom setup; you may note the board will not flash the diag LED. Various Bally and Stern games have under playfield fuses as well.
A common symptom of a blown playfield fuse is flippers operational, but no other on playfield solenoids work. This is because the flippers draw too much current for the under playfield fuse which is usually 1 or 2 amp , so they are connected before the fuse is in the circuit. The main solenoid fuse on the rectifier board is used to protect against a shorted flipper coil instead. Sometimes a large under playfield mechanism will be fused separately. Examples of the games with auxiliary fuses under the playfield are Silverball Mania and Eight Ball Deluxe.
If you have a solenoid not working it doesn't hurt to check and see if it has a fuse, or if someone decided to add one in the past. This is a limitation of the hardware design, as the 4-to decoder chip on the solenoid driver board can only decode one of 15 signals to fire an associated solenoid. Some games do utilize the remaining 4 continuous drivers for a momentary coil.
One example is the ball walker area in Flight - the 2 kickers are activated by the continuous solenoids, for a momentary period. You should identify which under playfield solenoids if any are used as such in your game and add a fuse to the activation single, thinner wire side of the coil to prevent a software glitch from locking on that coil.
Simply splice it inline with the single wire and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse to protect the driver circuit and coil in the case of a lockup. It would only be necessary to add the fuse for large loaded coils - relay or high resistance coils like on a flag gate or pop-up post coil relay do not place such a great load on the driving transistor that it is in any danger of burning out.
Weak playfield solenoids can be caused by a weak connection on the under playfield fuse holder. Remove the fuse and check for proper tension on the fuse clips for any tarnishing.
It is best to just replace suspect fuse holders with new vs. Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Bally part numbers, and no other markings are present.
Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Bally boards, and the more commonly referred to chip. The game must be working properly for the test button to function at all. The test button is not within the game switch matrix. It merely grounds pin 1 of MPU connector J3, note that the ground wire for this switch connects to the solenoid driver board at pin J, not the MPU board as one would expect.
Most failures of continuity to the MPU circuitry are due to either the connector pin in the female housing, or due to fractured solder joints on the male header. With the exception of Stern based games, pressing the test button the first time will enter the lamp test. All cpu controlled lamps will flash on and off including backbox lamps. This test will put the greatest load on the rectifier bridge as well as the connectors, enabling you to see "weak" connections.
Pressing the button for the first time with a Stern based game will start a "burn in" test lamps, displays, and solenoids will all be tested at the same time. The second press of the test button will bring you into display test. Digits from will appear on all displays in sequence, enabling inspection of the display elements. This test will not assist in some problems that can occur in displays concerning digit decoding, nor problems where one display ghosts its information onto another, as all displays are displaying the same information.
Some games will "walk" an eight across the displays in a sequence enabling issues with decoders to be determined. The third press of the test button will start a solenoid test. For Bally games, only the solenoids installed in that particular game will be tested, with their corresponding number showing on the displays.
Most Stern games will test all solenoid driver circuits regardless of if they are utilized in that game or not. For this reason, it is desirable to test a solenoid board with Stern software to be able to test all components of the solenoid drive circuit especially if you are fixing a board foreign to your game.
After all solenoids are tested, Stern games will test the sound board during solenoid test, while Bally games will not. With Bally games and all Stern games, the fourth press of the test button will start a switch test. The lowest numbered stuck or closed switch will show in the displays. If there are no stuck switches a zero will show in the match display.
This can be an issue with various switch matrix diode problems, as the switch displayed as closed may not be the switch with a problem. There is a special test rom available that will show ALL closed switches in a sequence similar to how Williams' machines did so. With Bally games, the fourth press of the test button will initiate a sound test.
The same sound will be played repeatedly until the test is exited. As exciting as it may be to acquire a pinball machine, there are several things which should be done before turning one on, or even plugging it in for that matter.
It may have been plugged in where it was purchased, but there may be some hidden issues looming inside the game. Following this systematic approach should be very beneficial. When fixing a game of unknown origin, it is best to initially keep it unplugged. There are several things which should be inspected on game, and these things require the game to be unplugged. While it's unplugged, make certain that the 3-prong is present on the line cord, and is actually connected to the earth ground of the game.
Likewise, if the 3-prong plug was ever changed in its life, it's a good idea to remove the cover of the plug, and inspect how the wires are connected to the terminal screws of the replacement plug. After looking over the line cord plug, inspect the line cord. Make certain that there are no nicks or cuts in the cord, deeming it unsafe.
Pinball Resource carries an inexpensive, flat, 3-conductor, 14ft. Next, move to the inside of the cabinet. Make certain that the line cord is securely soldered to the terminals on the line filter.
Equally, make certain the ground of the line cord is fastened to the earth ground of the cabinet. It is highly recommended to check all of the fuses in the game. This includes the fuses on the rectifier board. As mentioned, not all games have fuses in these locations, but be on the look out for them. The best way to make certain that all of the correct fuses go in the correct places is to first remove all of the fuses. Once they are removed, use an ohmmeter or DMM, and check continuity across all of the fuses.
Once the fuse have been checked, start placing them back into their proper locations. By removing all of the fuses, the user is forced to put the correct values in the correct locations. Fuses can be kept in the game, but if checking continuity, one side of the fuse must be removed from the fuse holder to attain an accurate reading. Vibration, heat, poor storing conditions, and in some cases alkali damage all take their toll on the connectors used in a pinball machine.
Both the male header pins and crimp connectors within plastic housings, in rare instances, IDC connectors too , are susceptible to the aforementioned conditions. Likewise, some previous person may have performed work on the game which got the job done, but was not necessarily the proper or most desirable way to do it.
Since the backbone to a properly and reliably functioning game is the connectors, spend some time inspecting all of the connectors in the game, before turning it on for the first time. If any connectors appear to be suspect, repair or replace the connector involved. The best practice is to replace both the male headers and the crimp connectors, if a specific area has seen some sort of damage from heat, oxidation, or alkali damage. In most every case, the plastic or nylon connector housings can be reused, if the crimp connectors are carefully removed.
In addition to connectors, keying plugs play a large role in a game. The purpose of this practice is to differentiate between connectors with minimal effort. The compliment housing will have a keying plug installed in the position where the header pin is absent. This was done originally at the factory. However, if a connector was replaced or repinned, a person who previously worked on the machine may not have installed a new keying plug.
Two examples of connectors without keying plugs can be seen in the pics on the left. This game had its wiring harness removed, so the connectors were not placed in their proper positions, and had to be reinstalled. The problem with the first pic is these two. The potential to incorrectly plug these two connectors onto the J3 header is extremely high.
Because neither housing had a key installed, plus two housings were used instead of one, there are at least four different ways that this connector could be connected.
Incorrectly plugging the connector onto the header may have caused extreme unnecessary damage to several of the circuit boards. In the lower pic to the left, the connector which goes onto J1 of the rectifier boards was missing a key too. In addition to possibly being plugged in upside down, this connector just as easily could have been plugged in one pin off.
If the connector was installed incorrectly, the results would not have been good. It can potentially save the user from unnecessary and costly repairs to the game. If you simply do not have a keying plug and can't remove the old one from the connector, you can use a square toothpick or a Qtip shaft cut down slightly to make one.
It is a hack but it's better than destroying good boards and components. Sometimes, a blue-green slime seems to be "bleeding" from a header pin connector. This is most likely the insulation coating breaking down into a slime. The best course of action, for long term reliability, is to repin both the male and female sides of the connector, getting rid of the slime as you go. Thanks to Bally's decision to modularize their system, there is a technique you can use to save yourself some headaches when you first power up a machine.
This method concentrates on the , , and all stern games rectifier boards. The rectifier board on later Bally games would employ a slightly different technique. Disconnect all connectors from the mpu, lamp, sound if present and solenoid driver boards. Disconnect J1 and J3 from the rectifier board.
Leave J2 connected. Check all the fuses for proper values on the rectifier board. Power on the game, watching to see if any fuses blow. Use a meter and test each test point on the rectifier board to ensure proper voltage is present remember some of the voltages are AC. Turn the game off and reconnect J3 to the solenoid driver board.
Connect J3 to the rectifier board as well. Power on the game and repeat the voltage tests on all the test points on the rectifier and solenoid driver board. Investigate any suspect voltages and correct any faults found. If the TL fails, and they do quite often with this implementation, the full VDC will be sent to your displays.
Once the solenoid driver board tests ok, connect J4 to the mpu board. Do not reconnect any other connectors to any other boards at this point. Power on the game; if all is well, you will see the mpu board start its LED flash sequence. When you add the playfield's connectors back in and power up, listen for any solenoids locking on at power-up. Repair the solenoid circuits before proceeding if any do lock on. At each step in the chain, be sure to inspect and repair any and all connectors in the circuits.
Often the connectors get tarnished and do not conduct well enough for reliable game operation. Do not try to clean or sand any suspect connectors - this is a temporary fix at best and only delays the inevitable task of replacement. Using this method for powering up the game for the first time ensures that any issues you encounter will be isolated to the last piece you added in.
Diagnosing and repairing one board at a time is much simpler than multiples. The rectifier board takes the AC voltage from the transformer and uses bridge rectification to convert those voltages to DC. Depending on the generation of board, there are varying amounts of discrete diodes or bridge rectifiers that produce the DC voltages needed. Additionally, all of the circuits have a fuse for protection in the event of a short on this board. Putting a meter on the test points across the top of the board will tell you if you're missing any voltages.
Refer to the schematics or the charts above to determine the proper voltages at each test point, and remember that some of the voltage outputs are AC volts. If there are any missing voltages investigate further to determine the cause.
The main issues with the rectifier board are cracked header pins, bad bridges, poor fuse clips, and poor connections on through hole vias. If you do nothing else to your power supply, replace the header pins and the connectors that connect to them. The pins are usually burnt beyond usage as are the connector pins. Often, operators chopped the harness connectors off and soldered the wires directly to the pins as a "fix".
You can get 10 amp header pins from various suppliers that are more robust than the original 7 amp versions. Often just this change alone will fix many lamp "wavering" problems you see on games with lots of feature lamps. When you replace the header pins consider prying up the plastic insulator piece slightly that keeps the pins in place so you can solder to the top and bottom of each pin.
This technique will cure any problems with vias you have and obviate the need for jumper wires that accomplish the same thing. After soldering you can push the insulator piece back down. Many times the fuse clips are weak or aren't making good contact with the fuses. If you inspect the fuse clips and they are tarnished at all, replace them.
Any fuse rated at 4 amps or more use a high current fuse clip to eliminate issues in the future with that circuit. Lower value fuses can use lower current clips with no problem. Solder the fuse clips bottom and top where appropriate for maximal mechanical strength and conductivity. Solder the leads top and bottom where appropriate. The power resistors should be replaced also with a slight air gap below them to help with cooling.
It is possible to approximately double the size of the power resistors 25 ohm to 47 ohm, ohm to 1. If you need to replace any bridges, the original style VJ bridge can be replaced on the board with a wire lead 25 or 35 amp bridge rectifier.
The other 2 leads are the AC inputs and are interchangeable. You have to bend the leads slightly to get them to fit in the smaller VJ solder pads. Mark the top of the board with the positive, negative, and AC leads so you don't solder the bridge off by mistake. If you decide to use the original style bridge, make sure it's not thicker than the other bridges in any other position.
The 3 bridges must lie flat against the heat sink slug for proper cooling. The best way to install a replacement VJ of the same thickness is to put the bridge in place, then bolt the slug back onto all 3 bridges. Solder the replacement bridge in place. Reinstall the slug with heat sink compound available at computer supply stores or Radio Shack smeared in a single thin layer on each bridge surface, and the slug surfaces.
Use the least amount possible to get a good even layer; more is not better. After replacing any parts, test your work with only the J2 cabinet connector installed. Never over fuse a circuit unless the manual for the game specifies; for instance, games with more than 2 flippers often recommend a larger fuse for the solenoid circuit to handle the additional load multiple flipper coils place on the fuse.
The weak link of this generation of rectifier board are the CR1-CR4 diodes originally 1n, replace with 1n - not so much for the added power capacity, but for the increased heat dissipation and CR5-CR8 6 amp at least 50v diodes. The original bridges are much hardier on this generation of rectifier board. If you do need to replace a bridge, the best way is to install it and bolt it onto the bottom mounting plate, then solder it into place. The bottom mounting plate acts as a heat sink for the bridges.
BR1 is for the feature lamps on the game, BR2 is for the solenoids. Mount the discrete diodes slightly off the board for better cooling. While not a large problem on this board, inspect the fuse clips as well to ensure they are not tarnished. By far the largest reason the MPU board stops working is because of alkaline corrosion from the on-board rechargeable batteries. Out of Stock - Discontinued more info Details Related Items.
Red 'bullseye' design on white background. Install over worn hot-stamped design on Two used per game. Used on Bally games- late electro-mechanical EM and early Includes C base, C cap, and Used for pop bumpers, slingshot kickers, and some other devices on many Flipper mechanical parts mount to this baseplate.
Available in left- or May be Coil mounting bracket with Flipper coil stop- fits all Bally Shoe holds 3-inch flipper cap such as Bally C or Gottlieb C Requires 1 screw for Requires Used on Bally games approx.
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