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But readers looking for specific aquastat control information should always first try the control manufacturer. Just ask us! Search the InspectApedia website.
Comment Form is loading comments Bottini Fuel is a residential and commercial heating oil distributor and oil heat service company in Wappingers Falls, NY and with offices in other New York locations. Typical timer applications will cycle the pump at preset times, allowing the user to select operation of the circulating pump during high peak usage periods in order to decrease the delivery time to outlet fixtures and reduce wasted water, also available at www.
These newer aquastat controllers are often used to replace the older Honeywell LA series that was and remains widely used, also available at www. LU is a universal electronic aquastat replacing over 40 other aquastat models that provides circulator, burner and boiler temperature control with electronic temperature sensing. The LU provides status and diagnostic information through an LED display to enhance the diagnostic process. In "Run" mode the LED displays the boiler temperature followed by the ambient temperature.
Buttons inside the control permit the service tech to scan through the control's settings as well as to change them, much like the functions on a programmable room thermostat. Five diagnostic LEDs inside the control provide additional diagnostic features, indicating counterclockwise from upper left EnviraCOM network active, Thermostat calling for heat, Burner on, Power to zone circulator interrupted lockout , Circulator powered. This is a "triple aquastat" providing High, Low, and circulator controls, as well as advanced features permitting electronic configuration and an LED display for diagnostics.
This aquastat can provide multiple zone control as well. The low-limit can be disabled for "cold-start" boiler applications such as where no tankless coil is in use. National Fuel Gas Code Z Catalog XHO Reprinted Underwriters Laboratories Inc. Component Recognized: Direct: Unit mounts on immersion well at desired sensing location. File No. MP, Guide No. Controller case mounts behind remote panel with two self-tapping M4 or No.
Optional mounting bracket allows mounting on front of panel. Specify bracket when ordering. BSPT 1 in. You can only view or download manuals with. Sign Up and get 5 for free. Upload your files to the site. You get 1 for each file you add. Get 1 for every time someone downloads your manual. Buy as many as you need. View and download manuals available only for.
Register and get 5 for free. Upload manuals that we do not have and get 1 for each file. Get 1 for every download of your manual. I replaced the honeywell thermocouple on a number of occasions with an additional honeywell brand thermocouple.
When the burner does run the gas flame height is normal and the gas pressure appears good. I then assumed it was the pilot mechanism in a defective gas valve that was the problem.
I replaced the gas valve with a new valve. The pilot light continues to go out periodically. It is a mystery. Can I rule out any connection between the pilot failing and the aquastat control for the burner? Ken, Nice; I'd like to see the diagram; you can use the "Add Image" button if you want to try posting that. Lc I can only guess with just a tiny bit of information in your note but it's possible that your aquastat relay has burned contact super that the relay itself has failed.
If after checking all of the electrical connections to be sure there's nothing simple like a loose wire, or a bad thermostat, you may have to replace the relay or the control itself. I have an honeywell aquastat relay le and the relay switch won't turn on the ignitor.
I have to click it and then it turns the ignitor on. What can I do to fix the problem? I have a resideo Lj which is replacing a Honeywell aquastat. I have wired it in and can not get the contactor switch to pull in or burner to light. Most technicians just replace the control entirely rather than attempting a field repair.
I think they figured that they had a labor and the risk of an unsuccessful repair calculate out to that conclusion. Is it better to replace the whole circular relay or can i do it peice by peice and wich would be cheaper. My boiler is controlled by the LE model Aquastat which has a 2-wire control up to an old "not-so-smart" digital thermostat that runs on 2 AA batteries.
All of the smart thermostats require a C-wire. Since there is no terminal on the Aquastat labeled Common, How or where do I run the new wire from? Watch out: if you are not familiar with safe and proper electrical wiring you could get shocked or start a fire. I jut wired it based on the one I removed. Same red wires with black spots on the one that had been running for years.
Crystal: Watch out : I see burned wires at the top of your controls, those two red wires. Those wires are connected to what are supposed to be the Thermostat terminals, normally low-voltage 24VAC - so I think something's wrong here. Who wired this up for you?
Hi everyone, I just installed a new AquatatLJ on my boiler along with a new expansion tank, pressure relieve valve nut and automatic pressure vent and I can't get heat. The boiler turns on, the water heats up but I can't get it to send out the water when the thermostats call for it.
I have 2 zones with separate thermostats and it isn't working for either so I am fairly sure it is not the thermostats or the zone valves causing the problem. I labeled all my wires and rewired it based on the labels but I am wondering if I messed up. I am thinking it is the T and TV connections that would be causing this particular issue but I don't know enough about it to be sure.
For fun both wires are red so its difficult to tell which is which and they both lead out to red wires on the zone valve motor boxes. The relay doesn't engage when the thermostat is turned on, and if I manually press the relay the pump seems to come on so I think that rules out the pump as the issue either.
Side note, the replacement was technically LJ and my original one did not have on the model number but they looked exactly alike so I was guessing they updated the model number in the decades since the original was installed. Thanks for any help you can give, its getting cold tonight :. Ed First check the settings in your control to be sure that your high limit is set below degrees.
Make sure that the low limit is at least 20 degrees lower than that. If the settings are correct then I suspect either that the sensor in the sensor well is not correctly sensing boiler temperature or has failed, or the control itself has failed.
Those are repairs that can be done by your heating service tech. I have an aquastat LE and when I call for heat it fires up and when it reaches set temperature the circulator pumps keep running and the temp just keeps rising until I have to turn the power switch off because it gets like a sauna?
Please help. Watch out : if you are not trained on safe and proper electrical wiring you could be shocked or killed or could damage the equipment or cause a fire.
Also the line feeds from a transformer, to gas valve, to LA thermostat then to the hi limit LC. If the relay won't pull in when voltage is applied to the terminals then it is probably defective unusual in new equipment Check first for a wiring error.
Travis I suspect the problem is in a connection or wire right on the aquastat control board or relay. I'm assuming that you've checked or can check that - the supply voltage to your building is around VAC at the same time that you are seeing 90VAC at the aquastat B1 B2 burner terminals - there is no problem with under-sized wiring.
Largely, my aquastat seems to be operating in accordance with what is described above, but for the fact that I get a 90 VAC reading between B1 and B2. The conclusion is there is some voltage drop I assume is not enough to fire the boiler Can anyone confirm? Any ideas what would be causing the voltage drop? Thanks for the follow-up; do keep us posted. Yes it's disappointing that as business models shift to very high volumes customer service is on the wane.
Thanks for the prompt reply Dan. Honeywell doesn't seem to have the chat option anymore, so I guess I'll call their support number this coming week. Gee Jim I hope your confidence in me will increase when I admit I don't know something. Rather than guess I'd feel safer if we that really means you give Honeywell a call or chat directly with this schematic and question.
In general, at the zone valve the thermostat operates the valve from the two T- terminals not polarized and the zone motor's end-switch will turn on the circulator wired to two C terminals. It's a long story! My burner uses a low voltage 24v AC gas valve, and it is a 4 zone valve system with 2 additional 24v AC transformers for the thermostats and Honeywell zone valves. I find the Honeywell schematics to be very helpful, but at the same time lacking and since none of the diagrams in either the Aquastat or zone valve sheets matched my system,.
I re-drew what I thought my system schematic should look like, in a format that I was familiar with. Can someone have a look to see if what I have drawn is theoretically correct?
The two things I had the most problem with were properly. Thanks to anyone having a look at my diagram and offering advice or corrections. One last puzzle to me.. Switches or capacitors? Thank you for your generous words Fred and for the posting which will certainly help other readers. It was very helpful in diagnosing an intermittent problem with my L Aquastat.
The Aquastat was not always firing the burner correctly. I'll describe it here, in case anyone in the future has a similar issue: It would initially fire correctly, but sometimes cut out at a mid-range temperature say F or so, or sometimes not re-fire after reaching the high-temp limit and then cooling past the normal low "limit".
Hitting the side of the box, or sometimes carefully pushing on areas of the board, would then cause the burner to fire.
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